Željava: the abandoned underground air base on the Bosnia–Croatia border
Visiting Željava (Object 505, Klek) from Bihać: history, how to get there, landmines, border rules, guided tours and what to bring.
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Željava is an abandoned underground Yugoslav air base (Object 505, code name Klek) under Plješevica mountain, right on the Bosnia–Croatia border, about 9 km in a straight line from Bihać. Visitors reach it from the Croatian side via the Izačić crossing; entry is free, but the surroundings are mined, so stay strictly on the tarmac and main roads.
For many foreign guests it is the most unusual day out from Bihać: a Cold War urbex and history site that is easy to combine with Plitvice.
A short history
The base was completed and operational by 1968 (sources disagree on when building began) and is described as one of the most important and most expensive military sites of Yugoslavia. Its key asset was a radar on Plješevica that formed part of the national air defence network, and the tunnels sheltered squadrons of MiG-21 fighters.
Underground there are about 3.5 km of tunnels with four entrances protected by doors of around 100 tonnes, three of them built for aircraft. In 1992, as the Yugoslav People’s Army (JNA) withdrew during the break-up of Yugoslavia, it abandoned the base and blew it up. What remains are runways, blast-scarred tunnel portals and wrecks, including a Dakota aircraft near the entrance, now a common meeting point for tours.
Where it is and how to get there
The complex lies between Bihać and the village of Željava in Croatia’s Plitvička Jezera municipality. The border runs through the base area, and its facilities are shared between Bihać and Croatia’s Lika-Senj County. You need a car: drive from Bihać to the Izačić (Bosnia) – Ličko Petrovo Selo (Croatia) crossing, then about 15 minutes to the runways. There is no public transport to the site.
| Item | What to know |
|---|---|
| Travel time | about 30 minutes from Bihać, plus the border |
| Border crossing | Izačić (BiH) – Ličko Petrovo Selo (HR) |
| Ticket | none; no visitor centre |
| Documents | passport; you are leaving Bosnia and entering the Schengen area. UK, US and other non-EU travellers are registered in the EU Entry/Exit System (EES) |
| Main hazards | landmines off the tarmac, falling debris in tunnels |
| Guided tours | about 2–3 hours, from the Croatian side |
Is it legal and safe
- Landmines. The former base is surrounded by minefields. Stay on the runway tarmac and the main roads, do not walk into grass, woods or ruins off the path, and do not touch unknown objects. If you see a mine warning sign, turn back the way you came.
- The border. The state border crosses the complex and is not marked everywhere. Crossing is only permitted at an official border crossing. Croatian police patrol the area, partly because it lies on a migration route; carry your passport and cooperate with checks.
- The tunnels. They were damaged by explosives: debris hangs from the ceiling, the floor is uneven, and it is pitch dark deeper in. Do not explore side corridors alone.
- Changes in 2026. In 2026 Croatia’s Ministry of the Interior presented a plan for a migrant registration centre on part of the complex, which led to local protests. According to statements reported in the media, the tunnels, runways and the Dakota area are to stay open to visitors. This may change, so check recent news before you set off.
Near the border your phone may switch to a Bosnian or Croatian network; Bosnia is outside the EU roaming zone, so check your tariff.
On your own or with a guide
On your own you will normally see the runways and the main tunnel. Guided tours last about two to three hours, start from the Plitvice area (for example Rakovica or Grabovac) or meet at the Dakota, and often include torches. Book with an operator that lists clear contact details and what is included.
What to bring
- a strong torch plus a spare or a headlamp; a phone light is not enough
- sturdy closed shoes with good grip
- long sleeves and a jacket: the tunnels are cooler than outside
- water, a charged phone and your passport
Željava pairs well with Plitvice on the same day, as both are on the Croatian side: see our Plitvice from Bihać FAQ, day trips from Bihać and the border and documents FAQ.
Where to stay
A town base close to the road to Izačić works well: for example Apartman Centar (up to 3 guests, right in the centre, kitchen, parking) or, for groups, Feel Luxury Apartments (up to 12 guests, air conditioning, washing machine, parking). Whole apartments start from €25 a night, you pay cash on arrival, no deposit is required unless a property says so in its confirmation, and we reply within 12 hours (WhatsApp/Viber +387 61 591 320). All options: Accommodation in Bihać.
FAQ
Is it legal to visit Željava?
The complex is abandoned, with no fence, tickets or visitor centre, and visitors and tours go to the runways and main tunnel. You may only cross the Bosnia–Croatia border at an official crossing, and Croatian police patrol the area. Because of a 2026 Croatian government plan for a migrant centre on part of the site, check current access before you go.
Are there landmines?
Yes. The surroundings are known for minefields, and in 2000 an officer was killed by an anti-personnel mine nearby while picking mushrooms. Stay on the tarmac of the runways and the main roads, and never walk into grass, woods or marked areas.
Do I need a guide?
Not required, but on your own you will usually see only the runways and the main tunnel. Guided tours of about two to three hours run from the Croatian side, mostly from the Plitvice area, and often include torches.
How far is it from Bihać?
Very close: about 15 minutes’ drive from the Izačić – Ličko Petrovo Selo border crossing, so roughly half an hour from Bihać plus the border queue.
Is it suitable for children?
Not for small children: the tunnels are dark, littered with debris and partly collapsed, and the surroundings are mined.
Sources
- Wikipedia – Željava Air Base
- Forgotten Airfields – Željava
- Željava (LYBI) – opis kompleksa
- Hrčak – speleološki članak o Željavi
- My Wanderlust – posjet Željavi
- Dark Tourism – Željava
- Srbija Danas – plan centra za migrante (2026)
- Thrill Quest – Željava i migrantski centar
- Civitatis – primjer vođene ture
- Europska komisija – EES
Checked: 12 November 2026